Spam! Spam! Spam! Spam! Loverly Spam!

            Every body remembers the raucous rendition of that timeless salute to canned meat by Monty Python. It was an ode to Spam, the canned meat concoction that possibly saved the British from starving during World War 2 and those of the Koreans and Japanese in the war’s aftermath.

            But what is Spam? What is it, where did it come from and why.

            Let’s go back, back to our ice age friends, Biff and Agnes. They were finishing up the last of the Azendohsaurus’ steaks and those steaks were a little past prime. Biff sniffed at them and said “These steaks have gone bad, It is a shame that there isn’t someway to preserve meat.” That is what he meant but what he said was “Ugh goghgo plu gazink.”

            For years after Biff and Agnes left this mortal coil mankind has been trying to do just that and has been reasonably successful.

            One of those success stories started in the little town of Austin, Minnesota in 1891, when George A. Hormel founded his namesake slaughterhouse and meatpacking facility there.

            In 1929, Jay Hormel, after serving in World War One, took over as the company’s president and under his leadership a six pound hunk of pork luncheon meat was developed. Butchers would shave of portions for their customers.

            Jay Hormel wanted to provide a product more appropriate for home use, available in smaller, family size.

            Julius Zillgitt, a Hormel employee, experimented with canning meat, he discovered that vacuum sealing pork into a can prevented the meat from sweating inside the can. He was experimenting with 12 ounce cans so that became the original standard.

            Others at Hormel developed the proper combination of pork shoulder (once considered an undesirable byproduct), water, salt, sugar and sodium nitrate (for coloring) and Spam was born. The name could have been an abbreviation of “spiced ham,” “spare meat,” or “Shoulders of pork and ham.”

But it was more likely an acronym for “Specially Processed Army Meat.” as one of the objects of the company was to sell it to the army as an easily transportable and practically no “use by date.

All this didn’t happen overnight. It took some time to get it just right and Spam wasn’t introduced until 1937. 

            It was far from a sensation with the housewives of the day. They looked with jaundiced eye on any meat that could be stored without refrigeration. In some towns the grocers kept it in the butcher’s meat case. With the strong reluctance those house wives started realizing the advantages to having “swing meat” you could keep in the pantry and not clutter up the ice box. On top of that (in my opinion) Spam tasted good. It started to become popular and then, “Pear Harbor.”

            The Spam hit the fan. The difficulty of delivering fresh meat to the front during World War II saw Spam become a vital part of our fighting men’s diet. It became known as a lot of things; one of the mildest was "meatloaf that missed basic training."

            During World War II, Spam was introduced into Guam, Hawaii, Okinawa, the Philippines, and other islands in the Pacific and they liked it, it became a unique part of the U.S. influence in the Pacific.

            The people of Korea and Japan "were on the point of starvation. The cans of Spam coming in were an absolute godsend in those terrible situations at the end of World War II. Today, Korea is the world's second-largest consumer of Spam only after the United States. In Korea Spam is considered a luxury item.

            Today, Spam fervor in Hawaii has sustained a decade-old Spam festival in Waikiki, where chefs and Spam-lovers gather to appreciate and explore the lunchmeat's role in Hawaiian culture.

            During WWII, Spam made its way to England, where rationing and the presence of American troops saw meat become a memory. Having the sort of food that can survive in the tropical heat and be kept on a shelf for weeks and months was a huge boon. Brits celebrate the very existence of Spam and how it kept them from starving during the war.

            WWII ended, thousands of American GIs returned home and refused to eat Spam. Spam, Spam, loverly Spam. Not me, when I got out of the Air Force I still liked Spam. But then I liked S.O.S. too.

But those guys weren’t having any of it. Spam saw its role start to slowly shift away from convenient protein source to "sometimes-food" side dish. When you look at the core of America after the war, Spam really stepped away from being that 'center of the plate' meal.

            "Moms around the country fancied it up. They put cloves in the Spam and hung pineapples down the sides and used it as a center plate.  Those returning vets said that it was still Spam and the hell with it. Spam became more of an ingredient rather than an entree it was used for sandwiches and as an ingredient served with eggs."

            Spam stepped up their advertising and promotion. With the drop in sales the Hormel Company panicked. They gathered a troupe of former servicewomen to promote Spam from coast to coast. The group was known as the Hormel Girls and associated the food with being patriotic. In 1948, two years after its formation, the troupe had grown to 60 women with 16 forming an orchestra. The show went on to become a radio program where the main selling point was Spam. The Hormel Girls were disbanded in 1953.^[47]

            But Spam survives today, I think they have played games with the size of the cans and even the recipe but I still like it. How can any product that is included in so many recipes be anything but tasty?

            Did you know that you can make Spam Jam, Spam Hash, Spam Rarebit, Spam Burgers and a Spamaletti.

            Do these sound a little low brow? Well Spam can be used in the Haute-ests recipes too.

An upscale New York Asian Fusion restaurant features  Sushi Ko, a delicious sushi.  

          Spam musubi   is a type of sushi that has marinated cooked spam in sushi. A delicacy in Hawaii... Maharlika is found in the Philippines and consists of beer-battered Spam fries. . . Delicious. 

            Then there is Spam Wellington, you just might want to try this so I will give you the recipe.

            2 cans Spam luncheon meat  (12 oz ea)

            1 can Pillsbury biscuit dough

            ½ cup Brown sugar

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place Spam, as close together as possible on cookie sheet. Sprinkle with brown sugar. Pop Pillsbury can. Cover Spam with dough. Pinch edges of dough together with fingertips so that Spam is not exposed.
Bake for 30 minutes or until dough is golden brown. . . Let stand 10 minutes before carving.

ENJOY

THE GUTS OF THE MATTER.

            Haggis is a savory pudding made with sheep's heart, liver and lungs; minced with onion, oatmeal, suet, spices, and salt, mixed with stock, and  traditionally stuffed in the animal's stomach.

            Yum, yum. Right. . . Wrong. You’’ American stomach probably rebels at eating “innards” or animal guts.

            Back in the early 1940s, the U.S. was shipping much of the nation’s meat supply to Europe and the Pacific to support troops fighting in WWII. Here at home, the meat supply started to dwindle. By 1941, New York restaurants were using horsemeat for hamburgers and there was a poultry black market.

            The impending meat shortage worried the Department of Defense. The first thing they did was ration meat but then they did something that made sense.  They called on the nation’s leading sociologists, psychologists and anthropologists and asked them to figure out how to convince Americans that they should eat organ meats, the protein-rich livers, hearts, kidneys, brains, stomachs and intestines that were left behind after the steaks and pork loins went overseas.

            Organ meat wasn’t popular in America. A middle-class woman in 1940 would sooner starve than despoil her table with tongue or tripe. Those experts had to convince Americans to eat livers and kidneys, housewives had to know how to make the foods look, taste and smell as similar as possible to what their families expected to see on the dinner table each night.

            They tried, they tried hard. They printed and passed out thousands of recipes showing how to camouflage innards to make them appear like something familiar. They took adds in local newspapers extolling the virtues of tongue, brains, and tripe. They even went to Hollywood and had several short subject movies made showing beautiful dishes such as Brains and Eggs and Tongue in Gelatin Aspic.

            The promotions must have shown some success. Liver and Onions has become fairly popular and  I know people who will knowingly eat kidney pie  or brains and eggs.  My Uncle Eddie was one of them but I also remember that he pretty much covered these dishes with catsup. but I degress. . .Back to Haggis.

            Haggis has been around for a long time but it didn’t go back as far as our friends, living in a cave, Agnes and Biff. I am sure they ate animal innards, but haggis was a bit more sophisticated.

            Their son, Fast Eddie or more likely one of his offspring might have ended up in early Greece where a kind of primitive haggis is referred to in Homer's Odyssey.

            The Ancient Romans were known to have made products of the haggis type. Whenever they had the guts.

            The name "hagws" or "hagese" was first used in England around 1430, but the dish came to be considered traditionally Scottish but there is a lack of historical

evidence that could conclusively attribute its origins to any one place.

            Haggis was "born of necessity, as a way to utilize the least expensive cuts of meat and the innards as well."

            Haggis is popular in England, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand and , of course, Scotland but not so much here in the United States.

            Many Scottish shops and manufacturers make what they call vegetarian haggis, substituting various pulses, nuts and vegetables for the meat..

            Haggis is widely available in supermarkets in Scotland all year, the cheaper brands are normally packed in artificial casings, rather than stomachs. Any Scotsman will tell you that the stomach casing is essential.

            However haggis is also sold in tins. Similar to our own Spam.

Just in case you have the stomach for it and want to give it a try. . .

Ingredients

·                         1 sheep's stomach, cleaned and thoroughly, scalded, turned inside out and soaked

·                         overnight in cold salted water

·                         heart and lungs of one lamb

·                         1lb beef or lamb trimmings, fat and lean

·                         2 onions, finely chopped

·                         8oz oatmeal

·                         1 tbsp salt

·                         1 tsp ground black pepper

·                         1 tsp ground dried coriander

·                         1 tsp mace

·                         1 tsp nutmeg

·                         water, enough to cook the haggis

·                         stock from lungs and trimmings

 

Method

1.                       Wash the lungs, heart and liver (if using). Place in large pan of cold water with the meat trimmings and bring to the boil. Cook for about 2 hours.

2.                       When cooked, strain off the stock and set the stock aside.

3.                       Mince the lungs, heart and trimmings.

4.                       Put the minced mixture in a bowl and add the finely chopped onions, oatmeal and    seasoning. Mix well and add enough stock to moisten the mixture. It should have a soft crumbly consistency.

5.                       Spoon the mixture into the sheep's stomach, so it's just over half full. Sew up the stomach with strong thread and prick a couple of times so it doesn't explode while cooking.

6.                       Put the haggis in a pan of boiling water (enough to cover it) and cook for 3 hours without a lid. Keep adding more water to keep it covered.

7.                       To serve, cut open the haggis and spoon out the filling. Serve with neeps (mashed turnip) and tatties (mashed potatoes).

TAMALES

Where did they come from, how did they wind up in a glass jar and where did they go?

            Once again we have to look back to get the true story of tamales. We have to go back eight or ten thousand years when Andy Aztec was really getting tired of the peanut butter and jelly sandwiches his wife Emma always fixed for him to take on his hunting trips.

            He came home from one of those hunting trips and threw a flamingo down on the table and told her to chop it up and make him something different for the next hunt.

            Emma had a crock full of masa, a starchy dough that she was going to make pancakes with. (I have already told you enough about pancakes) She chopped up the flamingo added some onions and spices and rolled it up in the masa. Then she wrapped the whole thing in a corn husk and steamed it.

            She packed several of them into his lunch pouch the next time he went hunting. When he returned he gave Emma a big kiss and a swat on the behind telling her that the flamingo tarts were delicious but that the coating on them was hard to chew and almost indigestible. She told him that the corn husk was supposed to be removed before eating.

            “That is a great idea, it will make them so much better. What do you call them?” he asked. “So’s I can tell the guys.”

            She thought about if for a minute. The Aztec word, tamalii, came to mind.   It meant “wrapped food.” They are called “Tamales.” she smiled.

            The Derby company put them up in glass jars because eight of them fit perfectly and they looked good.

            The company name possibly is associated with the Kentucky Derby.  The Tamale is the dish that best embodies "the backside" of the Derby, where all those that work with the horses live and work. Most of them are from Central America, and due to the migratory nature of the job and a lack of kitchen access, they rely on hot plates and crockpots to re-create their traditional cuisine.

            When I was a kid, the Derby glass jars of tamales were readily available There were always a couple of jars in the pantry. Ready to be popped open for lunch or a late night snack. You just heated them up and unrolled them on top a piece of rye bread and  added some horse radish.

            I haven’t seen any of those glass jars around for quite some time but recently my wife visited a specialty market out in Hartwell and brought home two “cans” of Derby Tamales. There were eight of them in each can, just like the jars used to hold. They were delicious.

            Later my wife looked more closely at those cans. The tamales we had were packed around the beginning of this century but they didn’t make us sick. So let’s hear it for preservatives.

            Derby went out of business about the time they canned those tamales so no mo tamales.

            Oh sure, all the Mexican restaurants serve tamales but they are big round things in real corn husks with real mixtures of fresh ground meat, vegetables and spices. They aren’t any thing like those paper wrapped, cornmeal covered, mystery stuffed beauties we used to get from a glass jar.

            If you are as old as I am you might remember, during the thirties, the Molly Man at Eighth and State. He stood at his cart beside the bank building and sold hot tamales. “Molly, Molly, Hot Tomale, get em while dere hot Tomale,” He would sing.

            It was always a treat, the nights my Dad would close the bar early and take me down to see the Molly Man. His tamales were a lot like the glass jar kind, but way better.   

            

Fun Food Facts and Fables by the Grumpy Gourmet

This morning I cooked up some pancakes. I’m good at pancakes, but this morning I was using some batter that I had prepared a couple of days ago and stored in the refrigerator. My batter had thickened so I added a little milk (secret – never put water into a pancake batter) and, of course, got it too thin.

There is an old saying that the first pancake never turns out right. Well, I fried three of them and none turned out right. They were the ugliest mishmash of pancakes you have ever seen, but they were still delicious. As I may have said earlier, I’m good at pancakes.

As I sat there eating them I got to wondering how pancakes came to be and decided to write the history of pancakes. If you have ever read anything I have written, you are probably aware that I am not big on research so, of course, I didn’t look anything up. I just went to my computer and started writing.

THE HISTORY OF PANCAKES

Way back, thirty or forty thousand years ago (apologies to any of you “Creationists” out there), Alley Oop—wait, I’d best I change that, the name is probably still under copyright. I will start over.

About thirty or forty thousand years ago, a cave man named Biff was out with the gang hunting for an Azendohsaurus. These beasts were big and had a lot of meat on them. They were also rather stupid, very small brains for the size of them. And they were pretty slow, easy prey for the hunters.

Unfortunately, there weren’t any around so Biff and the boys had a bad day.

Agnes, Biff’s wife, or I guess she would be considered his mate since marriage hadn’t been invented yet, had been out foraging and gathering. She had laid some cattails and ferns and other green stuff out on a rock while she thought about what to do with it.

When Biff returned he was angry and frustrated with the results of the hunt. When Agnes asked him how his day went, he went into a frenzy and took a swing at her with his club. Agnes had been in this kind of predicament before and she was very agile. She ducked and Biff missed, only to take out his frustration on the gatherings on the rock. He beat and beat on them, pulverizing everything there. He threw down his club, and as was his solution to almost any problem, he took a nap.

Agnes looked at the powdered heap and knew that they were desperate for something to eat so she gathered up the dusty ingredients from the rock and added a little water. (Cows and goats hadn’t been invented yet and dinosaurs were hard to milk, so using water in this case was acceptable.)

Agnes was a lot smarter than Biff, females had always been smarter than males, but males were bigger and stronger and did their best to keep the females subservient. This attitude prevailed for a long time so women just smiled inwardly and kept their silence.

Biff and Agnes always kept a fire going in their cave. It was a necessity. It kept them warm and kept critters out of the place. Agnes was the very first person to consider cooking something on it.

She found a nice flat rock and lodged it over the fire, as soon as it was good and hot she poured the mixture of the powder and water on it. The batter settled into little round blobs and when they started bubbling, she flipped them over using a spatula that she had earlier carved out of tree limb.

The result was a bunch of little, brown round things, almost a hundred of them that she immediately named Flat Eddies after her eldest son.

She added a little wild honey and called Biff. He tried one and roared. Biff was not overly articulate but she knew that he liked them. 

He gobbled down over half of them, smiled and went back to bed. Agnes ate a few and she thought they were good too—a relief after eating so much raw meat. She smiled and started to clean up as women were want to do for centuries to come.

By the time Biff and Agnes passed on, the Eddie Cake had found popularity among those early people. It was already being called by many different names but became a supplement to their early diet either as a side dish to their dinosaur steaks or, in hard times, their only source of sustenance.

But the pancake didn’t stop here in the Stone Age, its popularity continued. As civilization progressed, their popularity grew. Greeks and Romans ate pancakes, sweetened with honey just like early man ate them.

During the Elizabethan era the chefs of the time added spices, rosewater, wines, and fruit, and they were especially favored on Shrove Tuesday, a day of feasting and partying before the beginning of Lent. The church, realizing the evils of anything so delicious and objecting to Shrove Tuesday being popularly called Pancake Day, created mandates.

The populace knew that pancakes were a good way to use up perishables like eggs, milk, and butter, and they were delicious so the mandates were mostly ignored.

Pancakes had a lot of different names and there were a lot of different recipes. In colonial America they were known as hoe cakes, johnnycakes, or flapjacks and were made with buckwheat or cornmeal and served with a generous helping of molasses.

Thomas Jefferson really liked pancakes. His French chef, Etienne Lemaire, made his pancakes by pouring dollops of thin batter into a hot pan. The result was what Lemaire called

“panne-quaiques” and are what we would call crepes.

Whatever they are called, they are little, round, flat hunks of fried dough that have been around since Agnes threw batter on a hot, flat rock. And the key word is flat. “Flat as a pancake,” is an old saying. I once tried to make round puffy pancakes and they just were not as good.

BLACK COW PANCAKES

Ingredients

2oz plain flour    

Pinch of salt    

1 medium egg    

3 oz milk 

3oz root beer (crème soda, preferably Dr. Browns, may be substituted)

Oil, for frying   

Powdered sugar    

Ice cream   

 Directions

 Put flour into a bowl and stir in the salt.  Lightly beat together the egg and liquid. Pour over the flour mixture, a little at a time. Whisk it well, into a smooth a smooth pancake batter.

Heat a frying pan and very lightly grease the base of it with a piece of paper napkin dipped in oil. Pour a thin layer of batter into the pan.  Cook until it starts to bubble and the edges start to curl back. Flip the pancake over.  Cook the pancake briefly on this side, then slide it out on to a plate.

Cook the rest of the mixture in the same way. Allow pancakes to cool slightly then sprinkle with confectioner’s sugar.