THE GUTS OF THE MATTER.
Haggis is
a savory pudding made with sheep's heart, liver and lungs; minced with onion, oatmeal, suet, spices, and salt, mixed with stock,
and traditionally stuffed in the
animal's stomach.
Yum,
yum. Right. . . Wrong. You’’ American stomach probably rebels at eating
“innards” or animal guts.
Back
in the early 1940s, the U.S.
was shipping much of the nation’s meat supply to Europe
and the Pacific to support troops fighting in WWII. Here at home, the meat
supply started to dwindle. By 1941, New
York restaurants were using horsemeat for hamburgers
and there was a poultry black market.
The
impending meat shortage worried the Department of Defense. The first thing they
did was ration meat but then they did something that made sense. They called on the nation’s leading
sociologists, psychologists and anthropologists and asked them to figure out
how to convince Americans that they should eat organ meats, the protein-rich
livers, hearts, kidneys, brains, stomachs and intestines that were left behind
after the steaks and pork loins went overseas.
Organ meat
wasn’t popular in America .
A middle-class woman in 1940 would sooner starve than despoil her table with
tongue or tripe. Those experts had to convince Americans to eat livers
and kidneys, housewives had to know how to make the foods look, taste and smell
as similar as possible to what their families expected to see on the
dinner table each night.
They tried,
they tried hard. They printed and passed out thousands of recipes showing how
to camouflage innards to make them appear like something familiar. They took
adds in local newspapers extolling the virtues of tongue, brains, and tripe.
They even went to Hollywood
and had several short subject movies made showing beautiful dishes such as
Brains and Eggs and Tongue in Gelatin Aspic.
The promotions
must have shown some success. Liver and Onions has become fairly popular and I know people who will knowingly eat kidney pie
or brains and eggs. My Uncle Eddie was one of them but I also
remember that he pretty much covered these dishes with catsup. but I degress. .
.Back to Haggis.
Haggis has
been around for a long time but it didn’t go back as far as our friends, living
in a cave, Agnes and Biff. I am sure they ate animal innards, but haggis was a
bit more sophisticated.
Their son,
Fast Eddie or more likely one of his offspring might have ended up in early Greece where a
kind of primitive haggis is referred to in Homer's Odyssey.
The Ancient Romans were known to have made
products of the haggis type. Whenever they had the guts.
The
name "hagws" or "hagese" was first used in England around
1430, but the dish came to be considered traditionally Scottish but there is a lack of historical
evidence that could conclusively attribute its origins
to any one place.
Haggis
was "born of necessity, as a way to utilize the least expensive cuts of
meat and the innards as well."
Haggis is
popular in England , Ireland , Australia ,
New Zealand and , of course,
Scotland but not so much
here in the United States .
Many
Scottish shops and manufacturers make what they call vegetarian
haggis, substituting various pulses, nuts and vegetables for the meat..
Haggis
is widely available in supermarkets in Scotland all year, the cheaper
brands are normally packed in artificial casings, rather than stomachs. Any
Scotsman will tell you that the stomach casing is essential.
However
haggis is also sold in tins. Similar to our own Spam.
Just in case you have the stomach for it
and want to give it a try. . .
Ingredients
·
1 sheep's stomach, cleaned and thoroughly, scalded,
turned inside out and soaked
·
overnight in cold salted water
·
heart and lungs of one lamb
·
1lb beef or lamb trimmings,
fat and lean
·
2 onions, finely chopped
·
8oz oatmeal
·
1 tbsp salt
·
1 tsp ground black pepper
·
1 tsp ground dried coriander
·
1 tsp mace
·
1 tsp nutmeg
·
water, enough to cook the haggis
·
stock from lungs and trimmings
Method
1.
Wash the lungs, heart and liver (if
using). Place in large pan of cold water with the
meat trimmings and bring to the boil. Cook for about 2 hours.
2.
When cooked, strain off the stock and
set the stock aside.
3.
Mince the lungs, heart and trimmings.
4.
Put the minced mixture in a bowl and
add the finely chopped onions, oatmeal and seasoning.
Mix well and add enough stock to moisten the mixture. It should have a soft crumbly consistency.
5.
Spoon the mixture into the sheep's
stomach, so it's just over half full. Sew up the stomach with strong thread and prick a couple of times so it
doesn't explode while cooking.
6.
Put the haggis in a pan of boiling
water (enough to cover it) and cook for 3 hours without a lid. Keep adding more water to keep it covered.
7.
To serve, cut open the haggis and
spoon out the filling. Serve with neeps (mashed turnip) and tatties (mashed potatoes).
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